Milk Thistle for Skin Health
Milk thistle is best known as a liver protectant, but the same flavonolignans that protect hepatocytes against oxidative and inflammatory injury also protect skin cells against ultraviolet (UV) radiation, inflammatory aging, and pigmentation disorders. The mechanism translates directly: silymarin's antioxidant capacity, Nrf2 induction, and anti-inflammatory effects all operate in keratinocytes and melanocytes as well as in hepatocytes. The most rigorous trial evidence is in two dermatologic indications — UV photoprotection (topical silymarin reducing sunburn cell formation, pyrimidine dimer accumulation, and apoptosis in UVB-exposed keratinocytes) and pigmentation disorders (topical silymarin cream producing melasma and chloasma improvement comparable to topical hydroquinone with a vastly superior safety profile). Beyond these, smaller bodies of evidence support use in rosacea, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, atopic dermatitis, and as a general anti-aging topical antioxidant. This page walks through each application, the mechanism, and the practical formulation considerations.
Table of Contents
- Why a Liver Herb Also Helps Skin
- UV Photoprotection — Mechanism and Trials
- Pyrimidine Dimer Reduction and DNA Damage Prevention
- Sunburn Cell Formation and Apoptosis
- Melasma and Chloasma — The Pigmentation Trials
- Topical Silymarin vs Hydroquinone Comparison
- The Pigmentation Mechanism
- Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation
- Rosacea and Erythema
- Oral Silymarin Effects on Skin (Via Liver)
- NF-kappa-B Inhibition and Anti-Inflammatory Mechanism
- Formulation and Practical Use
- Cautions
- Key Research Papers
- Connections
Why a Liver Herb Also Helps Skin
The connection between milk thistle and skin health is not coincidental. The skin shares with the liver two characteristics that make both vulnerable to oxidative injury and responsive to the same protective interventions:
- Continuous oxidant exposure — the liver processes xenobiotics that generate reactive intermediates through phase I oxidation; the skin receives UV radiation that generates reactive oxygen species (ROS) in keratinocytes, melanocytes, and dermal fibroblasts. Both organs have evolved high baseline antioxidant capacity (high glutathione, abundant Nrf2/ARE-regulated cytoprotective genes) that can be supported pharmacologically.
- Inflammatory and proliferative regeneration — both liver and skin undergo continuous cell turnover driven by inflammatory and growth-factor signaling. Excessive or dysregulated signaling drives pathology (cirrhosis, psoriasis, hyperpigmentation, photoaging). Silymarin's NF-κB inhibition, matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) suppression, and TGF-β modulation all operate in both organs.
From a mechanistic standpoint, almost everything silymarin does for the liver, it also does for the skin — just at lower exposure (because topical application is the relevant route for skin, and topical silymarin penetrates only the upper epidermis). Oral silymarin produces some skin benefit indirectly through hepatic metabolism of skin-toxic compounds, but the direct dermatologic application is topical.
UV Photoprotection — Mechanism and Trials
Ultraviolet radiation is the principal driver of photoaging and the major modifiable risk factor for non-melanoma skin cancer (basal cell carcinoma, squamous cell carcinoma) and melanoma. UV-B (290-320 nm) penetrates the upper epidermis and causes direct DNA damage (cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers, 6-4 photoproducts) and indirect ROS-mediated damage. UV-A (320-400 nm) penetrates deeper into the dermis and primarily causes oxidative damage through ROS and lipid peroxidation.
Topical silymarin has been studied as a photoprotective adjunct in both animal models and human trials. The key studies:
- Katiyar et al. (1997, 2002, 2005) — a series of mouse and human cell-culture studies established the basic photoprotective mechanism: pretreatment with topical silymarin reduces UV-B-induced sunburn cell formation by 70-90%, reduces pyrimidine dimer accumulation by 30-50%, suppresses UVB-induced ornithine decarboxylase activity (a tumor promoter), and prevents UVB-induced immunosuppression.
- Singh and Agarwal (2002) — mouse skin tumor model: topical silymarin pretreatment before chronic UV-B exposure reduced skin tumor incidence by 35-95% (dose-dependent) and tumor multiplicity by similar magnitudes. Treatment was also effective post-UV.
- Katiyar (2011) — review summarizing >15 years of silymarin photoprotection research; concluded that topical silymarin is one of the most thoroughly investigated botanical photoprotectants with robust mechanism and animal-model evidence.
The clinical translation to human topical formulations has been slower than the animal-model evidence would predict, primarily because of formulation difficulties (silymarin is poorly soluble in conventional cosmetic vehicles) and because the photoprotective benefit overlaps with conventional sunscreen rather than replacing it. Modern positioning: silymarin-containing topical formulations as an adjunct to broad-spectrum mineral or chemical sunscreens, providing antioxidant defense against the UV photons that penetrate despite SPF protection.
Pyrimidine Dimer Reduction and DNA Damage Prevention
UV-B's most consequential injury is direct DNA damage. UV-B photons in the 280-315 nm range are preferentially absorbed by adjacent pyrimidine bases (thymine, cytosine) in DNA, forming covalent cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) and pyrimidine-pyrimidone (6-4) photoproducts. These lesions distort the DNA helix and block DNA polymerase progression during replication, resulting in either cell death (apoptosis), mutation (incorrect base incorporation across from the lesion during replication), or repair (via nucleotide excision repair).
Pyrimidine dimers are the most-studied molecular lesion in skin photocarcinogenesis. The "UV signature mutation" in basal cell carcinoma and squamous cell carcinoma (predominantly C→T transitions at dipyrimidine sites in TP53 and other tumor suppressor genes) reflects misrepair of pyrimidine dimers. Reducing pyrimidine dimer formation therefore reduces both immediate skin damage and long-term cancer risk.
Silymarin reduces pyrimidine dimer formation through two mechanisms. First, the flavonolignan structure has modest UV-absorbing capacity (silybin absorbs in the 280-330 nm range), acting as a partial molecular sunscreen at the keratinocyte plasma membrane level. Second, silymarin upregulates nucleotide excision repair (NER) machinery in keratinocytes, accelerating removal of pyrimidine dimers that do form.
The combined effect in mouse skin pretreated with topical silymarin and then exposed to UV-B is approximately 30-50% reduction in steady-state pyrimidine dimer accumulation compared to vehicle-treated controls. The downstream effect on tumor incidence in chronic-UV mouse models is approximately 35-95% reduction (dose-dependent).
Sunburn Cell Formation and Apoptosis
"Sunburn cells" are individual UV-damaged keratinocytes that undergo apoptotic cell death within 24-48 hours after UV exposure. They are histologically distinctive (pyknotic nucleus, eosinophilic cytoplasm) and are the cellular substrate of clinical sunburn. The number of sunburn cells per millimeter of epidermis is a quantitative readout of UV-induced damage.
Silymarin pretreatment dramatically reduces sunburn cell formation in mouse and human skin biopsy studies. The Katiyar laboratory series showed:
- Vehicle-treated UVB-exposed skin: 50-100 sunburn cells per mm of epidermis
- Silymarin-pretreated UVB-exposed skin: 10-30 sunburn cells per mm (70-90% reduction)
- Effect was dose-dependent (higher topical silymarin concentration produced greater reduction)
- Effect persisted with both pre-exposure and post-exposure application
The mechanism involves several parallel effects: direct ROS scavenging at the keratinocyte plasma membrane, Nrf2/ARE-driven upregulation of cytoprotective genes, reduced UVB-induced caspase activation, and modulation of UVB-induced cytokine production (reduced IL-1, IL-6, TNF-alpha, COX-2 in UVB-exposed silymarin-treated skin).
The clinical implication: regular use of topical silymarin-containing formulations may reduce both acute UV damage (sunburn severity, erythema) and the cumulative damage that drives photoaging and skin cancer risk. This is an adjunct to, not a replacement for, conventional sunscreen.
Melasma and Chloasma — The Pigmentation Trials
Melasma (also called chloasma when occurring during pregnancy or with oral contraceptives) is a common acquired hyperpigmentation disorder affecting predominantly women of reproductive age. The condition is characterized by symmetric brown or grayish-brown macules on sun-exposed areas of the face, particularly the cheeks, forehead, upper lip, and nose. The pathogenesis involves a combination of UV exposure, hormonal influences (estrogen, progesterone, melanocyte-stimulating hormone), and genetic susceptibility, resulting in increased melanocyte activity and melanin deposition.
Standard topical treatment for melasma includes hydroquinone (the gold-standard depigmenting agent, but with concerns about exogenous ochronosis with chronic use and a regulatory ban in the European Union since 2001), retinoids, kojic acid, azelaic acid, and triple-combination products (hydroquinone + tretinoin + corticosteroid, "Kligman's formula"). All have significant tolerability and safety concerns with chronic use.
Topical silymarin has been studied as a hydroquinone alternative or adjunct. The pivotal trial is Altaei (2012):
- 96 women with melasma randomized to topical silymarin cream 0.7% or vehicle for 4 weeks
- Outcome measure: MASI (Melasma Area and Severity Index) score change
- Silymarin group: significant MASI reduction (mean reduction approximately 80%)
- Vehicle group: minimal change
- Safety: silymarin cream was well-tolerated with no significant adverse effects
- Effect was rapid (apparent improvement at 1 week, near-maximal at 4 weeks)
Subsequent smaller studies (Sirithanabadeekul, 2014; Nofal, 2019) have confirmed the basic finding: topical silymarin cream produces meaningful melasma improvement with excellent safety, in a magnitude comparable to topical hydroquinone but without hydroquinone's safety concerns.
Topical Silymarin vs Hydroquinone Comparison
| Property | Hydroquinone | Topical Silymarin |
|---|---|---|
| Mechanism | Tyrosinase inhibition | Tyrosinase inhibition + Nrf2 + antioxidant |
| Standard concentration | 2% OTC, 4% prescription | 0.7-1% in studied formulations |
| Efficacy on melasma | Significant (~60-80% MASI reduction) | Significant (~80% MASI reduction) |
| Onset | 4-8 weeks | 1-4 weeks |
| Skin irritation | Common (20-30%) | Rare (<5%) |
| Long-term safety | Exogenous ochronosis with chronic use; banned in EU/Japan | Excellent long-term safety profile |
| Pregnancy | Category C; generally avoided | Not specifically contraindicated but limited data; conservative practice avoids |
| Cost | Inexpensive (generic) | Moderate (specialty formulations) |
| Combinable with | Tretinoin, corticosteroid (Kligman's) | Sunscreen, antioxidant serums, niacinamide |
The pragmatic position: topical silymarin has emerged as a reasonable alternative to hydroquinone for melasma management, particularly for patients with hydroquinone tolerability problems, those concerned about long-term hydroquinone safety, or those in EU jurisdictions where hydroquinone is restricted. The safety profile is the principal advantage; efficacy is roughly comparable.
The Pigmentation Mechanism
Melanogenesis — the production of melanin in melanocytes — is regulated by a cascade involving (1) UV or hormonal signal triggering increased melanocyte activity, (2) intracellular signaling activating microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), (3) MITF-driven expression of tyrosinase (the rate-limiting enzyme in melanin synthesis) and related melanogenic enzymes (TRP-1, TRP-2), (4) tyrosinase-catalyzed conversion of tyrosine to dopaquinone, and (5) further enzymatic and non-enzymatic transformations to eumelanin (brown/black) and pheomelanin (yellow/red).
Silymarin acts on multiple steps in this cascade:
- Direct tyrosinase inhibition — silybin competitively inhibits tyrosinase, the rate-limiting enzyme. IC50 approximately 75 µM in cell-free assays, comparable to other natural-product tyrosinase inhibitors (kojic acid IC50 approximately 50 µM, arbutin IC50 approximately 100 µM).
- MITF downregulation — silymarin reduces expression of MITF, the master regulator of melanogenic gene expression, blunting upstream activation of the entire pathway.
- UV-induced melanocyte stimulation blunting — the UV photoprotective mechanism described above also reduces UV-induced melanocyte activation, providing prevention upstream of melanin formation.
- Antioxidant protection of dermal collagen — reduces UV-driven oxidative damage to dermal collagen that would otherwise contribute to dyspigmentation appearance through optical changes.
- Anti-inflammatory effect — reduces UV-induced inflammation that itself drives post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation cascades.
The multi-step mechanism explains why topical silymarin produces effects beyond what a pure tyrosinase inhibitor would predict, and why effects are seen at relatively low formulation concentrations (0.7-1% in the published trials).
Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is the dark brown to black discoloration that follows skin inflammation — acne, eczema, allergic dermatitis, cosmetic procedures, injury. PIH is particularly common in skin types IV-VI (Fitzpatrick) where the melanocyte response to inflammation is more vigorous.
The PIH cascade overlaps with melasma but is triggered by inflammation rather than UV/hormonal stimulation. Inflammatory cytokines (IL-1, IL-6, TNF-α, leukotrienes, prostaglandins) activate melanocytes and stimulate melanin production at the inflammation site. The hyperpigmentation may persist for months to years after the inciting inflammation resolves.
Topical silymarin's combined anti-inflammatory and tyrosinase-inhibiting profile makes it well-suited to PIH. Small open-label trials and case series (Nofal 2019, others) have reported PIH reduction with topical silymarin formulations, particularly when started during the inflammatory phase before pigmentation has fully formed.
Typical use: silymarin-containing topical cream or serum applied twice daily to PIH-prone areas during and after the inflammatory phase, combined with broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day (UV exposure during PIH formation worsens the final pigmentation severity).
For acne-related PIH in skin of color, the combination of silymarin (anti-inflammatory + depigmenting) with niacinamide (10%, anti-inflammatory + melanosome-transfer inhibition) is a popular formulation strategy with synergistic mechanism.
Rosacea and Erythema
Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory facial dermatosis characterized by erythema, telangiectasia, papulopustular lesions, and (in advanced cases) phymatous tissue changes. Pathogenesis involves vascular hyperreactivity, neurogenic inflammation, innate immune dysregulation, and dysbiosis of the skin microbiome (Demodex folliculorum overgrowth in some patients). Conventional therapy includes topical metronidazole, topical azelaic acid, topical ivermectin, oral doxycycline, and pulsed-dye laser for telangiectasia.
The Berardesca et al. (2008) trial randomized 46 rosacea patients to topical silymarin-methionine cream (Marrubin) versus vehicle for one month. Results: significant reduction in erythema, papules, and telangiectasia in the silymarin arm, with improvement in patient-reported skin sensation. The mechanism is presumed to be silymarin's anti-inflammatory effect (NF-κB inhibition, reduced cytokine production) combined with antioxidant activity reducing the oxidative component of rosacea inflammation.
Topical silymarin formulations have entered the integrative dermatology toolkit for rosacea, typically as an adjunct to conventional therapy rather than a replacement. Patients with rosacea also benefit from oral milk thistle (via the liver-skin axis) and from gut-axis interventions (some rosacea is associated with SIBO; see SIBO page).
Oral Silymarin Effects on Skin (Via Liver)
Beyond topical application, oral silymarin produces some indirect skin benefits through hepatic mechanisms. The relevant connections:
- Chronic liver disease and skin manifestations — cirrhosis, chronic hepatitis, and severe hepatic dysfunction produce characteristic skin findings (spider angiomas, palmar erythema, jaundice, pruritus, terry nails, leukonychia). Treating the underlying liver disease (where milk thistle has an adjunctive role) improves the skin manifestations indirectly.
- Hepatic phase II detoxification and skin clearance — many environmental toxins, food allergens, and drug metabolites that contribute to acne, eczema, and other inflammatory skin conditions are processed hepatically. Enhanced phase II conjugation (via silymarin's Nrf2 / GSH effects) may reduce circulating dermatologically-relevant toxins.
- Hormone metabolism — the liver metabolizes estrogens, androgens, and other steroid hormones. Hepatic dysfunction can perturb hormone clearance and exacerbate hormonally-driven skin conditions (acne, hirsutism, melasma). Silymarin's hepatic support indirectly stabilizes hormone metabolism.
- Gut-liver-skin axis — intestinal dysbiosis, intestinal permeability ("leaky gut"), and hepatic detoxification interact to influence skin inflammatory tone. Milk thistle's hepatic and intestinal anti-inflammatory effects feed into this axis.
The honest qualification: oral silymarin's indirect skin effects are real but modest and not specific to skin. Patients seeking dermatologic benefit from milk thistle are better served by topical formulations directly applied to the skin areas of interest.
NF-kappa-B Inhibition and Anti-Inflammatory Mechanism
NF-κB (nuclear factor kappa-B) is the master transcription factor regulating inflammatory and immune responses. In skin, NF-κB is activated by UV exposure, microbial signals, mechanical injury, and inflammatory cytokines, and it drives transcription of TNF-α, IL-1, IL-6, IL-8, COX-2, iNOS, ICAM-1, and dozens of other inflammatory mediators. Excessive or chronic NF-κB activation drives skin pathology including psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, rosacea, acne, and photoaging.
Silymarin is a well-documented NF-κB inhibitor in both keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts. The mechanism involves several parallel effects:
- Direct inhibition of IκB kinase (IKK), the upstream activator of NF-κB
- Stabilization of the IκBα inhibitor protein (preventing its degradation and NF-κB release)
- Reduced nuclear translocation of activated NF-κB
- Reduced binding of NF-κB to target gene promoters
The downstream effect is reduced cytokine production in UV-exposed or inflammation-stressed skin. This is the mechanism behind silymarin's effects in rosacea, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, atopic dermatitis (preliminary evidence), and photoaging prevention.
The NF-κB mechanism is shared with curcumin (turmeric), resveratrol, and EGCG (green tea), explaining why these compounds are often combined in topical anti-inflammatory and anti-aging formulations.
An additional mechanism worth noting: silymarin suppresses matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), particularly MMP-1 and MMP-9, which degrade dermal collagen and elastin. This is part of the anti-photoaging mechanism and contributes to preservation of dermal structural integrity with chronic topical use.
Formulation and Practical Use
Concentration: Effective topical formulations in published clinical trials have used silymarin concentrations of 0.7-1.4% w/w. Higher concentrations (up to 3-5%) are used in some commercial products without obvious additional benefit.
Vehicle: Silymarin is poorly water-soluble and is typically formulated in hydroalcoholic vehicles, oil-in-water emulsions, or with solubilizing agents like phosphatidylcholine. Liposomal silymarin and nanoemulsion formulations are increasingly used and produce better skin penetration.
Application: Twice daily (morning and evening), applied to clean dry skin, allowed to absorb for 5-10 minutes before applying other topical products. Compatible with most other topical actives including niacinamide, vitamin C, retinoids (separate by 30 minutes to reduce irritation), and sunscreen.
Sunscreen pairing: Always combine with broad-spectrum SPF 30+ sunscreen during daytime use. Silymarin is a photoprotective adjunct, not a replacement for sunscreen.
Combination with vitamin C: Topical vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid 10-20%) is the most-studied topical antioxidant. The combination of vitamin C (morning) and silymarin (morning or evening) provides complementary antioxidant coverage with different mechanisms (vitamin C as electron donor, silymarin as Nrf2 activator and direct scavenger). The SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic-Silymarin product combines vitamin C, vitamin E, ferulic acid, and silymarin in one formulation.
Combination with niacinamide: Topical niacinamide (5-10%) inhibits melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes and is a well-established adjunct in melasma and PIH. The silymarin + niacinamide combination addresses pigmentation via two complementary mechanisms (silymarin reduces melanin production at the melanocyte; niacinamide reduces melanin transfer to keratinocytes).
Combination with retinoids: Topical tretinoin and retinaldehyde are powerful photoaging and pigmentation treatments. Combining with silymarin (separated by 30 minutes to reduce irritation) provides anti-inflammatory protection against retinoid-induced erythema and irritation, supporting better long-term tolerability of the retinoid.
Photoaging maintenance: For general photoaging prevention and antioxidant skin support, a silymarin-containing daytime serum applied before sunscreen, combined with retinoid at night and broad-spectrum sunscreen daily, represents a reasonable maintenance regimen.
Cautions
- Asteraceae allergy — patients with ragweed, daisy, marigold, or chrysanthemum allergy may develop contact dermatitis from topical silymarin. Patch-test new products before extended use.
- Pregnancy — safety data on topical silymarin in pregnancy are limited. Conservative practice avoids new initiation during pregnancy and lactation, although the topical exposure is low and systemic absorption is minimal.
- Sensitive skin — most patients tolerate topical silymarin well, but introduction should follow standard sensitive-skin practice (start once daily, increase to twice daily as tolerated, discontinue if irritation develops).
- Vehicle ingredients — many commercial silymarin formulations include fragrances, preservatives, or solubilizing agents that may be irritating. Choose minimally-formulated products from reputable manufacturers.
- Not a substitute for sunscreen — the photoprotective effect of silymarin is real but modest. It does not substitute for an SPF 30+ broad-spectrum mineral or chemical sunscreen.
- Not a treatment for skin cancer — despite the photocarcinogenesis-prevention mechanism, silymarin is not a treatment for established skin cancer (basal cell carcinoma, squamous cell carcinoma, melanoma) and should not delay dermatologic evaluation of suspicious lesions.
- Realistic expectations for melasma — melasma is a chronic relapsing condition. Topical silymarin (like all melasma treatments) produces fading rather than cure; ongoing maintenance and rigorous sun protection are required.
Key Research Papers
- Katiyar SK, Korman NJ, Mukhtar H, Agarwal R (1997). Protective effects of silymarin against photocarcinogenesis in a mouse skin model. J Natl Cancer Inst 89(8):556-66. — PubMed
- Singh RP, Agarwal R (2002). Mechanisms and preclinical efficacy of silibinin in preventing skin cancer. Eur J Cancer. — PubMed
- Katiyar SK (2002). Treatment of silymarin, a plant flavonoid, prevents ultraviolet light-induced immune suppression and oxidative stress in mouse skin. Int J Oncol 21(6):1213-22. — PubMed
- Katiyar SK (2011). Silymarin and skin cancer prevention: anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and immunomodulatory effects. Int J Oncol. — PubMed
- Altaei T (2012). The treatment of melasma by silymarin cream. BMC Dermatol 12:18. — PubMed
- Berardesca E, Cameli N, Cavallotti C, Levy JL, Pierard GE, de Paoli Ambrosi G (2008). Combined effects of silymarin and methylsulfonylmethane in the management of rosacea: clinical and instrumental evaluation. J Cosmet Dermatol. — PubMed
- Nofal E et al. (2019). Topical silymarin versus hydroquinone for melasma treatment: a randomized clinical trial. J Cosmet Dermatol. — PubMed
- Han MH et al. (2013). Silibinin protects against UVB-induced photoaging via Nrf2 pathway. Arch Dermatol Res. — PubMed
- Choi SJ, Cho EH, Jo HM, Min C, Ji YS, Park MY, Kim JH, Park SD (2008). Anti-pigmentary effect of silibinin in melanoma cells and UVB-induced pigmentation. Arch Dermatol Res. — PubMed
- Sirithanabadeekul P, Tantrapornpong P, Rattakul B, Sutthipisal N, Thanasarnaksorn W (2014). Comparison of topical 5% silymarin gel with 4% hydroquinone cream in the treatment of melasma. Cosmet Dermatol. — PubMed
- Mallikarjuna G, Dhanalakshmi S, Singh RP, Agarwal C, Agarwal R (2004). Silibinin protects against photocarcinogenesis via modulation of cell cycle regulators, mitogen-activated protein kinases, and Akt signaling. Cancer Res 64(17):6349-56. — PubMed
- Vaid M, Katiyar SK (2010). Molecular mechanisms of inhibition of photocarcinogenesis by silymarin, a phytochemical from milk thistle (Silybum marianum L. Gaertn.). Int J Oncol. — PubMed
PubMed Topic Searches
- PubMed: Topical silymarin photoprotection
- PubMed: Silymarin melasma/chloasma
- PubMed: Silibinin skin cancer chemoprevention
- PubMed: Silymarin rosacea / anti-inflammatory skin
- PubMed: Silymarin pyrimidine dimer / DNA damage
- PubMed: Silymarin photoaging
Connections
- Milk Thistle Overview
- Milk Thistle Benefits Hub
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- Antioxidant & Glutathione
- Hepatitis Adjunctive
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